Written by Lewis Kalmbach
People always contrast north Louisiana and south Louisiana as opposites. The same can be said for Vietnam. In the north, I found Hanoi (perched on the banks of the Red River!) to be a bit cold and suspicious, but in Saigon, I was received differently.
The city of Saigon now is called Ho Chi Minh City, or HCMC, after the beloved leader of “the people.” While the name is used interchangeably, the historic downtown area, where most tourists and businessmen stay, is still called Saigon.
Cu Chi tunnel
Lewis Kalmbach descends into one of the tunnels at Cu Chi outside Saigon. Note the tunnel’s width
For Asia,
Saigon is a relatively young city founded only in the mid-18th century as a Chinese port. Situated on the Saigon River, it became a secure and logical trading post for goods shipped from India and China on their way to Europe. Americans, however, know it best for playing a major role in the Vietnam War as the stronghold of the South.
After the war, Saigon fell into despair. In the early 1990s, western investors flocked to the city but pulled out a few years later due bureaucratic bullying. Today, the Asian powerhouse economies of China and Korea are making for a brighter future in Saigon.
The tree-lined Don Khoi is the Rodeo Drive of Saigon and will most likely be near your hotel. Here you’ll find some of the best shopping, dining and nightlife in Asia. Make time for an ice cream break here. I have never seen such clever creations made from cones, sprinkles and exotic flavors of ice cream and sorbets. Plan to spend a whopping 75 cents.
The museums were quite interesting with much memorabilia from the war. More remarkable, though, was the Reunification Palace. Designed as the home for former president Ngo Dinh Diem, the U.S.-backed leader of Vietnam until his untimely assassination — this building is symbolic for its role in the fall of Saigon. It was here the tanks of the North Vietnamese breached the gates and hung their victory flag from the balcony.
The best part about this building is the architecture. A fan of the mid-century style, this iconic ’60s monstrosity was virtually left untouched inside and out. What I mean to say is all of the furniture and equipment still is there just beyond the velvet ropes. It was like being at Graceland with the outlandish furniture and fabrics of the day. One easily can imagine heads of state (and Dean Martin) gathering for cocktails in the swanky parlors and billiard room. The map room was massive and had a Dr. Strangelove aura about it.
Forty miles outside of HCMC, I found one of the most indelible experiences on my adventure. The Cu Chi Tunnels lie at the end of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and served as the base for attacking Saigon. It was here the U.S. carpet-bombed the region, which forced the residents to literally go underground. A vast network of narrow tunnels stretched as far as Cambodia and featured meeting rooms, kitchens and triage units.
The guided tour starts with a campy war-era propaganda film that references us as “those red-hot American devils.” Next there are simulations of gory booby traps and guerrilla snares that are as gruesome as any Wes Craven horror flick. Grab a real AK-47 at the shooting range where for $1 a bullet you can play soldier. Finally, at one of the tunnels, tourists are encouraged to crawl through these very claustrophobic passages to gain appreciation for the ingenuity of these clever people. After emerging from these dark, dank and earthy tunnels, my guide kicked a few leaves around only to expose three very large scorpions.
I must confess I have newfound respect for our brave men and women who had to serve in the Vietnam War. Once on this foreign turf, I could see how we lost. We were simply not prepared for the cunning of the Vietnamese and their perilous terrain. Can the same be said for Iraq? I hope not.
TRAVEL TIP
When visiting Southeast Asia, only book your initial round-trip flight from the U.S. Once in your gateway city, there are many more flight options at cheaper prices than can be bought in advance from the States. Also, consider Manila, Philippines, as your gateway. There are three nonstops daily from the West Coast. The national carrier, Philippine Airlines, was less than half the price of flying directly to Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City. While the service is not as stellar as the legendary Thai Airways or even Cathay Pacific, it still was better than most U.S. carriers, especially in business class. My round-trip business class was only $1,900! Checkphilippineairlines.com for special deals.
Well, that wraps up Southeast Asia. While I did most of my site-seeing in the big cities, I would revisit all of these countries to explore the coastlines and backwoods. Thank you for following these top-of-mind ramblings. I hope I provided some new insight into this rich region and that you will start planing your own adventure today.
